Photography News

The WANDRD PRVKE 21 L has been a popular camera bag, typically nailing its Kickstarter campaign goals just minutes after launching. V4 of this bag has just been released. This is a review of the 21 L Zip, with this model dispensing with the roll-top. I'll go over what I like and what I didn't like. 

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With some schools closed for the half-term break this week we thought we'd give you some suggestions on where you can go with the kids that'll keep them entertained and still give you the opportunity to get your camera out of its bag.

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1. The Coast

 

With arcades, beaches, ice cream and fish and chips, the coast is a great place for a family day-trip. Plus, with lighthouses, piers, promenades and plenty of other photographic opportunities available your camera won't be spending too long in its bag. 

Here are 10 techniques for you to take a look at before you head for the seaside: 

1. Coast Close-Up Photography With Compacts
2. 5 Tips To Improve Your Coastal Landscapes
3. Photographing Lighthouses In The Landscape
4. Long Exposures At The Coast
5. Coast Photography Tips For The 'Golden' Hours
6. How To Photograph What The Sea Washes Up
7. Photographing Piers
8. Photographing Under The BoardWalk
9. Lighthouse Photography Tips
10. Out Of Season Coast Photos

 

2. Castles

From sweeping majestic castles with interactive features to ruins of castle walls that once protected its occupiers, these great structures offer ample opportunity for photographers and their gear. Attractions such as Warwick Castle are both photogenic and entertaining thanks to tours and other activities taking place during opening hours. The summer months tend to be the times when more entertainment is put in place, however, a quick search online will soon show you what locations are hosting what events/activities during the half-term break. 

For tips on equipment choices and shooting angles, have a read of these castle photography techniques:

• A Guide To Photographing Castles
• Quick Stately Home And Castle Photography Tips
• Castle Photography Advice

 

3. The Zoo

 

A day out at the zoo is something loved by children and families, but they're also a great place for photographers, too. They're brimming with photographic subjects but the screens and fences that protect them, and us can be a bit of a nightmare for photographers. They put distance between you and the animal and as you can't generally photograph over them you have to shoot through them. However, there are a few ways you can make your day out at the zoo more of a photography success as we explain in these articles:

• 15 Top Zoo Photography Tips
• Photography At Zoos

  4. Your Local Park

 

Among the concrete jungle, there are pockets of green that break the greys of the city skyline up and whether you're snapping the blankets of alternating colour from a distance or are among the trees yourself, city parks have plenty of photographic opportunities to keep you busy. Plus, with plenty of grass for kicking a ball around and swings for entertainment, your children won't be bored either!

Have a read of these tutorials for park photography tips: 

• What To Photograph In Parks
• Photography In Parks

 

5. Set-Up A Portrait Shoot

One way to keep the kids entertained at home that'll still give you the opportunity to get your camera out is a portrait shoot. This could be indoors or out, posed and with guidance or have a more candid style to it. Whichever you decide, here are a few tutorials to help you out. Plus, you'll find even more portrait-related articles in ePHOTOzine's technique section. 

• Indoor Portraits With Window Light
• How To Capture Smiling Close Ups Of Children
• Photographing Family Or Groups Of Friends
• Shooting A Set Of Fun Portraits
• Tips For A Child Portrait Shoot
• Creative Children Portraits On A Budget

 

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Memory cards are the most overlooked purchase decision in photography. We agonize over camera bodies for months, research lenses obsessively, and then grab whatever SD card is on sale at checkout. This approach works fine until you're shooting a wedding and your buffer locks up during the first dance, or you're recording an interview and the camera stops mid-sentence because your card couldn't keep up. 

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If you only had one bag that can fit your camera gear comfortably, can let you bring it every day, can withstand less-than-ideal environments, and can adapt to other things when you don’t need your camera, this might be one to consider. 

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Uh oh. A conversation about AI in photography? Let the witch hunt begin. We all know that AI is rapidly becoming a dominant and controversial topic in our industry. I am not here to proclaim one way or another, but simply to open a dialogue between the technical modernization of art and, of course, the purism of the art form. 

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Commercial real estate photography is getting more serious, and agents are paying attention. If you already shoot residential listings, there’s a clear opening to step into higher-paying work without starting over. 

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Premiere Pro is no longer called Premiere Pro. With version 26.0, Adobe has renamed it Premiere on Desktop, and that shift comes with tools that could change how you handle masking, transitions, and overall timeline speed. 

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Full frame cameras dominate headlines, but APS-C models are quietly outselling them by a wide margin. Shipments in 2025 show a gap that challenges the idea that bigger sensors are the obvious end goal. 

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Daylight is free and it is wonderful for portrait work as not only is it flattering and photogenic but it's really easy to work with so it's a good place for beginners to start. You don't need a fancy studio, either, as you can pick a location outdoors or simply set-up next to a window in your own home.  

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1. Light & Time Of Day

To take good portraits with light from a window you don't need a lot of space but do try and avoid an area/time of day where direct sunlight is flowing through the window to avoid contrast problems. If you can, work on an overcast day because the light will be naturally diffused and won't be too harsh. 

As we are working with window light, you don't want other light sources spoiling your shot so turn your house lights off for neutral results.

 

2. Use A Reflector 

You'll probably need to bounce some light onto your subject's face and the best way to do this is with a reflector. You can either use a purpose-made one, some white card or some silver foil stuck onto a sheet of MDF will do.

In case you don't have someone to hand, a tripod makes a good reflector holder or you can hold the reflector yourself and set the camera on a self-timer. Or, you could use a reflector designed to be held by a photographer. If you are shooting tightly cropped images, the model can hold the reflector for you, too.

 

 

3. Metering Tips 

If you use manual metering, take a reading from the model's face and not the window. If you meter from the window it will think the scene is brighter than what it is and as a result, your subject will be underexposed.
 

4. Get The White Balance Right 

It is worth trying different white-balance settings. Auto white-balance can work well, but try shade or cloudy for warmer looking images.  
 

5. Framing & Capturing Your Portrait 

Get in as close as you can to capture/use as much daylight as possible. A tripod is useful, hand-held can work just as well but make sure you are shooting at a reasonably fast shutter speed and remember to focus on the eyes. Crop in tight on the face and if you wish, you can use the window to help frame the shot.

Most people are not natural posers so communication and guidance are important. For posing ideas, check out the fashion magazines and images in our gallery, too.
 

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I've been looking for a bag that meets my needs for a long time. I've always been a traveling photographer, taking my gear to some of the hottest, coldest, wettest, and driest places on the planet. A bag has to do a lot to make the grade. Escalating my needs, over the last few years I've also been working as a photography guide in Canada's sub-Arctic, the high Arctic, and Antarctica. These regions don't settle for everyday quality. In these extreme environments, the bags either work or your gear gets ruined.

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There are so many fabulous prime lenses that have been launched these past 12 months—and continue to be launched—it’s hard to know which direction to go if you’re looking to buy a new one. The choice can be overwhelming and confusing.  

An example that has stood out for me recently is 35mm primes. Viltrox has an astoundingly good, yet large, 35mm f/1.2 LAB. In comparison, there’s Artizlab’s tiny Classic 35mm f/1.4. Two 35mm lenses new to market, both shoot very fast. One weighs around 970 g—the other, a mere 157 g. It is quite a difference.

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The analog photography revival is real. You can see it at every wedding reception with a disposable camera basket, every college campus where students dangle point-and-shoots from their wrists, every TikTok tutorial on how to load a roll of Kodak Gold. But if you follow the money instead of the aesthetics, you'll find two radically different stories unfolding under the same "film is back" umbrella. 

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The Nikon ZR promises cinema-level features in a body that overlaps heavily with the Nikon Z8, and that overlap raises a real question about what you’re actually gaining. If you shoot both photo and video, the choice affects how you work day to day, not just how your footage looks. 

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A strip softbox can change the way your portraits look with one small shift in light placement. If you shoot people and want more control over shape, edge highlights, and background spill, this modifier earns its place fast. 

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Southern Utah forces you to think bigger. When the land stretches for miles and the sky takes up half the frame, small compositional mistakes get exposed fast. 

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Clear communication shapes every part of your wedding business, from the first inquiry to the final gallery delivery. If you handle it poorly, you invite stress, missed bookings, and couples who expect access to you at all hours. 

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Vignettes aren't a new editing trick, in fact, when darkrooms were still widely in use photographers would apply dodging and burning masks to images during the processing or use filters on their camera lenses when taking the shots. Now the effect is usually re-created digitally with software but the reason for applying them hasn't changed. They are still a simple yet, subtle way to guide/draw the eye to your main subject and frame shots.

The effect has also grown in popularity thanks to cameras such as Holgas becoming popular again. This 'hipster' look is now rather desirable so using techniques that re-create this, what was an unintentional vignette, on digital images is now something even apps are doing. In fact, creating vignettes on photos taken with mobile phones is one of the effects that's listed in our Ten Photoshop Techniques To Do On An iOS App article.

 

How And Why

When it comes to applying vignettes, less is usually better than more as if you make the effect too strong and obvious, it can end up spoiling your shot rather than enhancing it. Of course, there are times when a stronger vignette will work, such as with moody black & white landscapes, but most of the time subtle will be the way to go.

You should apply a vignette once all your other edits are complete as adjustments such as cropping may change the overall look of the image and the vignette could end up sitting in the wrong place or highlighting part of the shot you didn't want it to. This isn't true in Lightroom, though, as we'll explain further into the tutorial.

You can create vignettes in several applications including Photoshop, GIMP and Lightroom. For those wanting to learn more about the vignette options available in Lightroom, carry on reading this tutorial. For those looking for tips on how to create vignettes in Photoshop or GIMP, click on the following links:

 

• Four Ways To Create A Vignette In Photoshop
• How To Create A High-Key Vignette Using GIMP

 

Vignettes In Lightroom

When you open the develop module in Lightroom you'll see there are two Vignetting options. The first can be found under Lens Corrections and this is designed to decrease or even fully remove the vignetting caused by the lens when the image was taken. The changes are applied to the corners of the full-frame image and two sliders allow you to alter the strength and positioning of the effect.

 

Move the Amount slider to the right and the figure will increase, lightening the corners as the slider moves. Pull it to the right and the figure will decrease, darkening the corners. The Midpoint slider alters the area the vignette is applied to. Move the slider to the left and the vignette amount adjustment is applied to a larger area away from the corners, pull the slider in the opposite direction and this will restrict the adjustment area nearer to the corners of the image.

 

The Post-Crop Vignetting tool is one that's designed for more creative purposes and once applied, will stay on your image even if you decide to crop the shot again. There are also more editing controls available under the Post-Crop Vignetting tool, giving you more control over how the final vignette will look.

Three types of vignettes are available and these are accessed from the Style menu. These three options will alter how the vignette you apply blends with the photo you're editing. Highlight Priority is set as the default option and will create a vignetting effect that you're most familiar with.

Once you've picked your Style (we are using Highlight Priority) you can use the various sliders to adjust the vignette.
 

Amount

Pull this slider to the right and the vignette will lighten, pull it to the left and it will appear darker.

Midpoint

This will change how much of the image away from the edges the vignette is applied to. Pull the slider left and the vignette's size will be increased, pull it to the right and it will retreat back into the corners of the shot.

 

Roundness

This changes the shape of the vignette to give it rounder or straighter edges. If you pull the slider to the left the shape is more rectangular/square while pulling it the opposite way will make the vignette more circular.

 

Feather

This adjusts how hard or soft the edges of the vignette are. A harder vignette (which you get by pulling the slider to the left) generally doesn't look as good as feathered vignettes as it creates a shape that's too defined. The second image, which shows a vignette with a higher feathered value, is much softer.

 

Highlights

When in Highlight or Colour Priority the Highlights slider becomes active if you've used a negative value when adjusting the amount (so the vignette is dark). Pulling the Highlights slider to the right will, according to Adobe, 'control the degree of highlight contrast preserved'. In other words, it allows you to control how little or much highlight contrast there is in your vignette.

See the difference in these two images when the slider is set at 0 then 45:

 

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Black and white photography promises seriousness without risk, coherence without effort, and intention without proof. In an era where color is technically trivial and visually unforgiving, monochrome offers shelter. It removes variables, postpones judgment, and replaces unresolved structure with borrowed authority. It is like dimming the lights in a messy room: the objects do not move, but the problems stop being visible. If an image cannot survive color, was monochrome ever a choice? 

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These aren't compromised relics from a forgotten era. They're the same tools that shot magazine covers, documented weddings, and produced professional video content when they retailed for two or three times what they cost today. The sensor inside a five-year-old camera hasn't degraded. The engineering hasn't gotten worse. These cameras have simply depreciated because photographers chase new releases with the enthusiasm of golden retrievers pursuing tennis balls, and that irrational behavior creates opportunity for everyone else. 

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The “gear doesn’t matter” phrase pops up constantly in street photography circles. It may encourage beginners, but it rarely holds up once you’re actually on the street. 

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